🇺🇸 Zapatista visita

While in San Cristóbal de las Casas, we met a lovely duo working at our hostel, Ruth of New Zealand, and Jessica of Pennsylvania. They had been in the city a couple of weeks and were intrigued by stories of those who had visited the (relatively) nearby Zapatista community, Oventic. We were eager to join their adventure though we knew little more than that we needed to bring our passports, and that the road from San Cristóbal to Oventic is a winding one, so those of weak stomachs, take note.

In our collectivo, happy with the 33 peso (just over $2) price, Ruth less happy about all the twists and turns. The lady next to Julien kept falling asleep on his shoulder; it was a cozy hour and a half ride.

We rounded the 154^th bend when our driver announced that those getting off at Oventic (the only four gringos) could hop out at, what was to the untrained eye, the current nondescript part of the highway. We were greeted by a set of iron gates to the right, and to the left mural-filled convenience stores, schools, and a sign assuring us drugs and assaults are strictly prohibited. Then we saw the most obvious clue, a sign that read: You are in the territory of Zapatistas in rebellion; here the pueblo governs and the government obeys.

So started a visit of few words exchanged. We walked to the front gates and were greeted by three balaclava-clad residents; we handed over our passports, information was documented, passports were returned, simple questions regarding our jobs and interests were posed (and answered), and then our profile sheets were taken to one of the buildings for further review. Ten minutes later the gates were unlocked, and we were in…in for what was less a tour than an accompanied walk. Our accompany-er took us past empty schools (summer break) and cooperativos, by administrative buildings and food-stores, in front of a pharmacy and the urgent-care room, all the walls of which were filled with colorful murals, ideas of revolution and philosophical messages a-plenty. The visit was fascinating despite the lack of communication, and we certainly left more curious and with more questions than when we came. Maybe that was the idea.

Somos la tierra creciendo la autonomía (We are the earth growing autonomy) Tu liberación es nuestro liberación. Tú eres otro yo. Yo soy otro tú. (Your liberation is our liberation. You are another me. I am another you.)

At school!

Inside the school

No hay arma más eficaz que la verdad en el pensamiento

Casa de la Junta del Buen Gobierno; Corazon Centrico de los Zapatistas delante del Mundo

Upon returning to San Cristóbal, we recounted our experience to a fellow hostel-stayer who told us that to get more out of the visit, one should ask to speak with the Junta del Buen Gobierno (the Head of the Good Government, “good” in relation to the “bad government”, or the present Mexican government) and, if a representative were in, we would have enjoyed a more in-depth visit.

Urgent care and the pharmacy

Tienda de Artesanias Mujeres por la Dignidad

Convenience Store

Julien’s favorite, the Air Force of the Zapatistas clay pigeon

Eating area with photos from Zapatista movements, mostly from the ’90s

After our Oventic visit the girls wanted to stop by Zinacantán, a city just outside San Cristóbal, known for its textiles. We happily obliged and spent an hour walking about the city.

The woman to the left is the one sitting in the archway in the previous previous photo. She kindly encouraged us to follow her to her weaving store where we got to see many-a-woven textile.