During our stay in Guatemala, volcanic news proved to be just as intense as the political news. Volcán de Fuego, one of the most active volcanoes in the world, had increased its activity during the election period, providing an explosive, breathtaking spectacle from nearby Antigua. From the rooftop of our hostel in Antigua, Julien spent many minutes (read several hours) snapping photos and capturing video of smoke poofs and lava flows. The idea of getting a little closer to Fuego was irresistible, and we reserved a spot for Julien to climb to the top of Acatenango, the volcano attached to Fuego, while I would hang out in cafes in Antigua.

Click here for a video climb of Acatenango.

Preparations for the trek

The Acatenango climb has the exact same itinerary as the the trek we had done at Tajumulco: one day of hiking to arrive to base camp at 3600 meters altitide, a few hours of sleep in freezing tents, then 300 vertical meters of climbing by headlamp, the reward being a beautiful, warming sunrise from the summit. The trek was more challenging than Tajumulco, but the effort was well rewarded by stunning views both from base camp as well as the summit of Acatenango over the active Fuego.

Destination seen between the clouds

Taking a break

The steep slope quickly takes us above the clouds

A wave of panic came over the group during the lunch break when the first raindrops fell. Two minutes later all the colorful ponchos and protective covers were in place, and the rain stopped.

A happy hiker in a funeral landscape. In 2006 a fire destroyed Acatenango’s forest. Trees that survived were weakened and have since been attacked by a beetle that punctures the tree to feed on the bark. The beetle brings with it a fungus that grows in the trunk and kills the tree within 90 days. The only remedy now is to cut down the contaminated trees to prevent the spread of this plague.

A visably appreciated break

During the ascent vibrations could be felt in the ground, and frequent rumbling similar to thunder could be heard. It was Fuego’s welcome.

Hiker hiding his excitement

According to the sound delay between the eruption and the boom, it could be calculated that Fuego’s crater was just two kilometers away.

Arrival at base camp

Both a siesta and the view were much appreciated by the group

Volcán de Agua surpassing the clouds

Fuego and Fuego (campfire and volcano). Though eruptions are exactly the same day and night the darkness exchanges ash plumes for lava flows.

All night you would be sure to hear a “WOAH!” every 10 to 20 minutes followed by echoing booms and crackling lava falling down the slopes of Fuego.

Volcán de Agua and Antigua to the far left

Arriving to the top of Acatenango, many selfies being taken at the crater’s edge; Volcán de Agua in the background

Sunrise over Volcán de Agua

Strombolian shadow of Acatenango on a sea of clouds

Germany, Italy and France in front of Volcán de Fuego

Water and fire (Volcán de Agua and Volcán de Fuego)

This stray dog is at the top of Acatenango every morning. It lives off the food hikers give and leave at the different base camps.

One last plume before heading back down to base camp

Scenic descent. It is always surprising to discover what was impossible to see while climbing to the summit in the dark.

Satisfied hiker

Guatemala, Italy, and Australia leading the way

A shortcut through ditches created by the torrents of rainwater was able to be taken thanks to mild weather

Tired, but with many pictures and memories

Last break

Sunny arrival with rewarding views of Acatenango