The night we came back from our Llanganuco tour, Julien mentioned he was feeling quite sore. We had done nothing particularly trying physically other than sitting in buses (which is not to undermine the potential uncomfortableness of a long ride!), but we decided to take it easy and not book another tour for the next day. The soreness continued and then the searing headaches set in. I was playing doctor, Googling any and all symptoms and had diagnosed Julien with the flu. Then I came across some information that malaria often starts with flu-like symptoms and, though we haven’t really been in malaria-prevalent regions, day three of headaches, loss-of-appetite-ness, and general not-getting-out-of-bed-ness, off to the clinic we went to test for malaria. A few hours and tests later, results came back negative, diagnosis flu (maybe I should look into becoming a doctor…), and we headed back to the hotel for another seven days of pain killers, unending migraines, baby applesauce, natural sleep inducers, Chinese food, and, for my part, a lot of cable TV and snapping photos of the incredible landscape as seen from our hotel. The day finally came when the headaches were less severe, appetite was existent, and Julien was on the mend.

Rainbow over the Cordillera Blanca

Huascarán from our rooftop terrace

These rooftop chickens provided us company and entertainment while Julien was bed-ridden

Once Julien was feeling better, photos with alpacas were immediately taken; this is Julien with Blanca Flor.

We had already spent much longer in Huaraz than originally planned, but we decided to take one more day tour before heading to Cusco. This time we would be making a stop at Laguna Querococha, passing through the Kahuish tunnel (the highest road tunnel to date at 4,516m, 14,816 feet, above sea level), before reaching our destination at Chavín de Huántar, ruins from one of the oldest major cultural periods in Peru (1200-500BC). It’s not quite known what the site was used for, though due to the large temple-like structures and the complex underground labyrinth, it is thought to be an important ceremonial center.

Glaciar-fed lake, glacial temps

Views once we exited the Kahuish tunnel

Chavín main square

Getting a thorough explanation of ingenious water systems in the rain; a rainbow of ponchos

Puma Rock, named as such for the water pools that resembled (vaguely) a puma

An underground labyrinth thought to be used to solidify religious beliefs. Followers were given San Pedro (a cactus with hallucinogenic effects) and then sent into these darkended underground mazes. In the center, a fierce illuminated 4.5 meter white-granite monolith, the Lanzón de Chavín, was sure to instill fear and belief even in non-believers.

For a view of the underground labyrinth, click here

Key-stone head

Back in Huaraz, we were privy to many of the activities in the street, including a pig that was consumed within an hour.

California Café, a most lovely spot with a most lovely kitten

Celebratory dinner before an overnight bus to Lima!