Dolores Olmedo was Diego Rivera’s close friend and patron. In the 1960s she purchased this house in the neighborhood Xochimilco (one of many examples of a small city swallowed up by the ever-expanding capitol), eventually turning her home into a bonafide museum to display all the art she collected. Most famously the museum, now open to the public, contains the largest private collection of Diego & Frida’s artwork. Interestingly enough, Julien and I had seen Dolores Olmedo’s collection in its short stint in the Orangerie in Paris last winter, but our Mexican visit was a much more tranquil and beautiful experience. Along with David and his friend Sofia, we took a half hour road trip to southern Mexico City to visit the picturesque museum.

Nos amis David et Sofia à gauche, Diego et Frida sur le mur, et un invité surprise dans le clocher.

There were peacocks, everywhere.

Baby ones, mother ones.

Male ones looking beautiful.

Males looking inside out.

Peacocks in bell-towers.

And the peculiar Xoloitzcuintles (Xolo) dogs: hairless (or in random spots around the body, sparsely haired), homely, beloved. My first interaction with these dogs was in Peru where I was told that people used to sleep with them as their black skin absorbed the heat during the day and radiated well into the night. The fright I would experience in waking up next to one of these canines would be enough for to swear off the practice, surely. In the Americas they have a sacred history, valued and revered by inhabitants of Mexico, Central and South America for over 3000 years, and today they are the national dog of Mexico.There is one Xolo statue in the photo.

No photos inside, but as consolation, here’s another peacock.

And a working payphone.